On Dalian dinner tables, Zhuanghe sea cucumber is a dish to be proud of. Lying at 39°N where the Yellow and Bohai seas meet, the waters are mild and rich in feed — ideal for sea cucumbers that grow three to five years among the reefs off Shicheng and Hei islands before reaching full flesh. Gentle in nature, they are a year-round tonic: congee with sea cucumber or sliced segments in dishes are the old family way. Spring and autumn are the harvest seasons; fresh, dried and ready-to-eat forms all travel well. For Zhuanghe people, the humble dark trepang holds the nourishment of the 39th parallel and the patience of their fishermen.